great gift idea for that special fancier is a Siegel's Gift
Certificate, available in any amount, for a holiday gift,
a birthday, Father's Day, or any other occasion. Just phone us
at 800-437-4436 and we'll make up a nice certificate and
mail it to your recipient. He or she will be able to apply it
to a new book, a great new training basket, medications or supplements,
or any other purchase from Siegel's.
Dozens of birds from the Zazueta loft have been
auctioned. Due to popular request, we've retained information about
the lineage and history of the Zazueta loft here on the web
Click here for details
The timer revolution
When split seconds count, make sure you're counting split seconds
accurately! Benzing electronic timers
have quickly become the new standard in our sport and are more
popular than ever! The best has gotten better! Benzing's
new M-1 clock and "Lazer" antennas are now in
the States, and full distribution is now available. They are the
most accurate, sensitive antenna in the world today--with the
most antenna coils per square inch of any
pigeon scanning antenna available!
was a kick to sit at our computer monitor and "watch"
the birds clock in the World Ace Challenge races!
The biggest races rely on the Benzing tradition of accuracy
and speed, and the Benzing M-1 system is revealing itself
to be heads above the competition.
A Benzing M-1 "Lazer" system recently clocked
the Lou McElroy Race. Among the other major one-loft races
using Benzing Lazers are the Colorado Goldrush Race,
a 300-mile race flown from Elm Creek, NE, released on October
the East Coast Classic, the Gulf Coast
Classic, the San Diego Classic, the San Jacinto
Classic, America's King Cup, the Snowbird
Classic, and the Caribbean Classic.
Other members of the Benzing "family" of futurity races
and racing combines include the Texas Shoot-Out, American Showdown,
Desert Classic, East Coast Challenge, Flamingo Race, Caribbean
Classic, Queen City Memorial, Boundbrook Futurity, and
Paterson Air Derby, among many others....
Tell me more...
me to Instructions for Downloading Benzing Clocks to WinSpeed after
me to Instructions for Acquiring and Using the Benzing Download
me to Instructions for Atomic Timer Use on Benzing Electronic Systems...
me to a list of printers that are compatible with Benzing Electronic
In News & Views:
In his newest report, Stefan Mertens interviews National Winners... Mertens himself is the 2006 1st National Champion KBDB
Middle Distance Youngbirds.
For these reports, and many other archived features,
Read on for all the news!
Suanovil is not in stock now. When it is unavailable, there are effective substitutes.
Suanovil is one of the most effective products for respiratory
infections in our birds, so feel free to call us about its availability
whenever you might need it.
When you cannot find Suanovil, there are very effective substitutes
for it: Doxy-T and Doxyvet, Tylan Concentrate,
Linco-Spectin, or Ery-Mycin. Any of these can be
substituted for Suanovil with very satisfactory results.
For severe cases, we recommend using two of these products in
combination with each other.
Ed Minvielle on the road...again!
Siegel Pigeons prospective travel schedule:
Texas Center Racing Pigeon Convention -
California State Racing Pigeon Organization -
American Racing Pigeon Union Convention -
National Show -
We look forward to a wonderful convention season and to seeing our friends and customers around the country on our travels in 2016...
here to return to top of page)
Tips for the fancier:
in the Loft
month I referred to a way to keep our racing birds from molting
too soon by pulling a widow hen from her mate after the second
egg of the second round is laid. Pigeons will molt a feather for
each round that they lay and brood, and in order to delay the
process of those all-important wing flights on a racer
from molting too fast, we can slow down this process in a
widow cock by removing his hen and removing the eggs so that he
does not go through the process of setting and raising another
round of young. Some fanciers think that taking both the hen and
the eggs away at the same time could cause undue stress for the
That is why they leave the youngsters (or at least one youngster)
with the cock, because at this point in the rearing process he
is the main care-giver for the babies, and the idea is that even
if his hen and the next round of eggs are missing, he will become
so totally aborbed in taking care of his youngsters that he will
not become overly distressed by his missing hen and eggs.
Obviously, if there are no youngsters, then a good way to undertake
this process would be to remove the hen from the loft while the
cock is sitting the nest, and then let him continue to sit the
eggs until he quits the nest, which might be two or three days
later. But in this way, the stress of separation from his hen
and eggs will be much more gradual and less stressful. The
idea is to get the cock to develop a strong bond to his nestbox,
to identify this as his most sacred place in the world, a place
that he will put forth great effort in getting back to as fast
as he can, but NOT to wear him out by having him raise too many
youngsters or drive his hen too many times, and in the process
proceed too far in the molt.
Most experienced racing fanciers do not concern themselves too
much with whether the first, second or third (counting from the
middle out) flights are missing when a bird goes to the races,
but the farther out on the wing that a flight is missing, the
more important it becomes to successful flight. Thus, it might
be important for you to take note of this during the winter preparation
of your race team, and try to make a plan about when you will
pair your racers and how many eggs and young you will allow them
to raise before the races start.
February, most fanciers throughout the country have paired their
breeders. Many pairs are already sitting their second round of
eggs, while some are just being paired for their first. In some
parts of the country, fanciers are beginning to train their old-bird
race teams for the upcoming season. Because the winning that fanciers
do with young birds is entirely tied to the health of the breeders
when they were paired, I want to explore what is considered a
healthy pigeon as well as to detail what to look for to determine
that a pigeon is not in top health for the upcoming breeding
and racing seasons.
Before pairing up his breeders, a successful fancier will determine
that the birds are in absolute top health. How is this done? First,
I like to look at the flock in general. An experienced fancier
can tell at a glance if a flock of pigeons is healthy and happy
by the way that they act in the loft. Is there great energy in
the loft? Do the birds sparkle, and have sheen on their feathers?
Are they active and full of life? If so, things in general are
good. But what about individual birds? Sometimes, even in a good
loft with overall excellent health, a bird or two can slip through
the cracks so to speak, and the fancier can miss the fact that
a few birds are not up to par.
here to return to top of page)
weeks prior to racing and breeding, I like to take each bird in
hand and thoroughly inspect it. When I handle a bird, the first
thing I consider is the pigeon's weight. If a bird is light,
I want to know why. If a bird is extremely light, I put it
in isolation for closer observation. Once I have determined that
the particular bird I am handling is within the "window" of weight
for proper health, I examine the head, paying particular attention
to the nose cere or wattle. I want the cere to be extremely white
in color and chalky looking. If it is not, and the pigeon is not
feeding young, I will generally remove that bird from the flock
because a sure sign of trouble in a pigeon is if the nose cere
is gray or brown and wet looking, especially if that bird is not
feeding young. Only if a bird is feeding young will I disregard
this area being discolored.
you have birds in your loft that are not feeding young, and who
show signs of a discolored nose wattle, you should check these
birds immediately. Usually "brown noses" indicate a canker
or respiratory problem, but this could also be an indicator
of even more problems. If I detect a problem with the "brown nose,"
I will usually look inside the beak to see if I can detect mucous
in the throat. Almost always (unless feeding young), when a bird
has a brown nose, there will be throat mucous present. Of course,
if a veterinarian is readily available, a throat smear would be
the best first course of action.
here to return to top of page)
in the United States, experienced vets for pigeons are rather
hard to find, so we fanciers have to inform ourselves about the
diseases and medications used to treat them. In a situation where
I find a bird with a brown nose wattle and throat mucous, I recommend
isolating the bird and treating for five days for canker, using
either Turbosole, Ridzol, Pegosan, Trichoron Forte or Spartrix.
Bear in mind that our Ten-In-One Capsules will attack a wide variety
of conditions very effectively, including canker. Generally speaking,
where there is smoke there is fire, and I would become extremely
suspicious of the entire flock if I found even one bird suffering
from such symptoms. If you can be certain that there are only
one or two birds in a particular loft that have disease symptoms,
then isolating the affected birds and treating only them could
be good advice, but I would keep a cautious eye on that flock
for several weeks, and if any more pigeons were to become afflicted,
immediate flock treatment would be the most prudent action to
sick bird should always be isolated from the rest of the flock
and observed very closely. If things don't improve rather rapidly
once a canker treatment has begun, I would then consider a treatment
for respiratory disease.
After evaluating the nose and body weight, I always examine the
eyes looking to see if the eyes are brilliant, full of color and
not wet or dull. It is necessary to examine both eyes, because
I have often found that one eye is slightly more brilliant than
the other in what would appear to be an otherwise healthy pigeon.
If I find this condition, then I know that the bird either is
suffering from a respiratory condition, or did at one time. In
some cases, birds that have suffered from a severe respiratory
infection in one eye never get the complete color back in that
iris ever again.
here to return to top of page)
there is excessive moisture around the edge of the eyelid where
it touches the eye itself, I know immediately that there is presence
of respiratory infection. An eye loupe is an excellent tool to
use to check this ridge of the eyelid to see if there is moisture
around the rim. The only way to know how to recognize an excess
of moisture is to examine a great many birds, and especially to
look for this when you are looking at birds from a champion fancier's
loft. You will see that birds that are in peak health will have
relatively "dry" or normal eyes.
Eventually, you will be able to determine what is considered a
healthy looking eye as opposed to one that is too wet. With experience,
you'll be able to determine, even without a loupe, if certain
birds have "wet eyes." If you detect too much moisture here, a
repiratory infection is certain to exist. One tip I look for is
the presence of trapped air bubbles lining the edge of the eye,
this is a sure sign that the pigeon is suffering from a mild respiratory
infection. If so, I would strongly recommend checking several
other birds in the same loft for this eye condition, because I
have rarely seen just one bird in a given loft suffering from
If several birds have this "wet eye" symptom, you should check the loft for excessive drafts and/or dust, and immediately start a respiratory treatment program. Also, changes to the loft should be made to eliminate overcrowding or excessive drafts. It would probably be wise to treat that loft of birds with a respiratory medication for a period of up to 14 days. We like to vary the medications we use for respiratory treatment, so we alternate between Tylan with Aureomycin, or Doxyvet with Tylan, and sometimes, if suspect a severe problem, we especially like Doxyvet and Suanovil together. It is helpful to keep in mind that in cases of severe infection, combinations of these respiratory medications, as well as alternating treatments, can be very beneficial. I'd like to offer some advice concerning respiratory medications.
First, it's important to know that giving other types of drugs at the same time as respiratory drugs is not always recommended. When in doubt, it is always better to give a respiratory drug by itself than to give it in a mixture of other drugs as has become so popular today. Next, distilled water can help to make the drug more effective, because distilled water does not contain any chemicals that could react with the active ingredients in these drugs. Finally, all grit, calcium, and mineral supplements, such as picking stones, should be eliminated from the diet during the time that respiratory drugs are being given. If you follow these guidelines, the birds will get maximum benefit from the use of your respiratory medications.
I check the overall appearance of the feathers once I have finished assessing the condition of a bird's eyes. I like to see a sheen on the feathers and a feeling of softness and pliability. I know that these are relative terms, but if you are conscious of these things when you are handling pigeons, eventually, with experience, you will be able to determine what "soft and supple" and "silky and pliable" mean. If the feathers appear dry and coarse and don't have any plume (white powder that looks like talc) on them, then this is a sign of something wrong.
here to return to top of page)
Very often, a vitamin or mineral deficiency is the cause of dull feathers, and one of the things that can cause such deficiencies in pigeons is worm infestation. If I find a bird or two with dull feathers, I immediately separate them from the flock and give them a worm treatment. (Moxidectin, Moxidectin Plus, and Eqvalan are very good ones.) The next day, I check the droppings for the presence of worms in the stool. Very often, fanciers neglect worming their birds, and we have found that it can make a very big difference in their overall health.
other things, I open the wing and check the flight feathers.
What I am looking for, aside from the shape of the flights, is
fret marks and plume on the feathers. If I see a bird that is
just done with the molt that has lines across the feathers, like
indentations running completely across the feather, then I know
that this bird was in stress at the time that that flight was
coming out. An infection the bird was fighting, or, for a racer,
an overnight or very tough race can cause frets to develop.
If the bird appears in good health otherwise, I just try to figure
out what caused the fret to determine whether or not it was something
I could have controlled. If I see a large number of these frets,
then I will not breed from that particular bird during the upcoming
breeding season. Also, I'll give it a year off to hopefully come
back the following year with a better molt, in better health and
with more sure signs of being fit enough to breed high-quality
Of course, while I have the wing open, I always check for feather
lice--either the lice themselves or their eggs embedded along
the main quill of the feather. If I see a minor infestation of
lice, I'll use an aerosol spray (Colombine Spray, Natural Spray,
Cansafix, or Ecto-Spray, etc.) and douse the feathers of the wing
along with the rump and the neck before I put the bird back into
If I see a more than one or two lice on a bird, or if I see signs
of pigeon flies (identified by finding small holes in the feathers),
I would then consider dipping the entire flock in a solution
of Malathion diluted with water. I've been doing this for
over thirty years with extremely good results. I use ¼ cup of
57 percent Malathion to two gallons of water. Generally, every
bird is dipped at least once a year, and the racers are dipped
more often, as they often come into contact with feral pigeons
that are infested with external parasites. This dipping will protect
the pigeons from lice, mites and pigeon flies for months at a
here to return to top of page)
Of course, you want to be extremely careful not to let the Malathion
solution come into contact with the birds' eyes, and prevent any
of the solution from being ingested, so we take extra precaution
when dipping. We use latex surgical gloves to protect our hands,
and we are careful not to let any part of the pigeon's head go
into the solution.
We always pick a sunny, dry day to do this, with temperatures
above 50 degrees. We have found that the birds will dry off completely
within thiry to forty minutes and seem to show a great deal of
enthusiasm and renewed vigor once they have dried. I know that
many fanciers around this country have problems with pigeon flies,
and I can assure you, if you do, your race results will not be
at the very top.
These are among the things that I look for in the overall health
of my birds. If any bird does not come up to what I consider top
health, I will not breed from that bird--or race it. I have found
through experience that it would be a complete waste of time.
Remember: The winning you will do with the young birds that you
hatch in the spring is entirely tied to the overall health of
the breeders when you paired them. Only the healthiest breeders
will produce pigeons good enough to perform in today's intense
competition, and only birds that have been cared for properly
before the breeding season begins will be fit enough to produce
the kinds of pigeons that will win.
Yours in the Sport,
here to return to top of page)
Order 2016 AU bands now if you have not already done so.
recommends these products based on finishing your pairing of birds and raising the first
round of youngsters....
Bands – Now available for 2016. Letter "A" designated. These are A.U. certified bands. Using
them will allow you to compete in any A.U. certified race. Siegel’s keeps
records of the bands so that if a stray bird is found with the letter
designation "A" it is a Siegel’s issued band for which we can trace the
owner. Available in plastic only.
SW 1.20 lbs
SW 1.40 lbs
the world-wide product of choice for canker in pigeons. This product has
a wide safety margin, and is safe to use during racing, breeding, or molting.
Complete directions included. (Australian Pigeon Company)
SW 2.00 lbs
THE PIGEON – by Dr. Colin Walker. Dr. Walker is a very successful pigeon racing veterinarian in Australia, and he shares information gained during 30 years of racing his own birds that includes race fitness, race preparation and recovery, disease control during racing and breeding, behavior, droppings, loft design, feeding, and much more.
SW 7 lbs
Best new book on the pigeon sport!
Kingmaker - DeRauw-Sablon: A Racing Pigeon Dynasty - A must for any pigeon fancier's library! The DeRauw-Sablon strain is one of the most sought after and valuable racing pigeon strains in the world. This is the definitive work with over 100 photos and illustrations. Hard cover, color photos, 156 pp.
SW 4 lbs
- This is the world-wide product of choice for upper respiratory problems.
It is is also less affected by concurrent use of calcium and other mineral
supplements. Very popular. (Australian Pigeon Company)
SW 1.70 lbs
Berimax - Advanced canker treatment for racing and show birds. Laboratory tests in Europe and the U.S. have proven that this unique "all natural" formula provides the most advanced recipe against all 26 strains of canker. Five days of use has proven to eradicate even the most resistant strains of canker, and it is so safe that it can safely be given to four-day-old babies. To completely eradicate very resistant strains of canker can require a full 5 to 7 day treatment and sometimes increasing dosages We have also found it very helpful to use Berimax in conjunction with Ecol Tonic to get rid of resistant candida and canker, as Ecol Tonic seems to increase the strength of Berimax. Use one level teaspoon of Berimax per gallon of water. Contents will treat 16 gallons of water.
SW 1.00 lb
2 - 80 gram canisters
SW 1.50 lb
3 - 80 gram canisters
SW 2.00 lb
Ecol-Tonic – An all-natural product fortified with ten special organic
acids and proven in the loft to be effective in boosting immunity and
promoting health and vigor, and bringing the droppings back to normal
in racing and show pigeons. 16 oz. will dose 32 gallons of water. Always
remember to follow the use of Ecol-Tonic with a good pro-biotic.
SW 2.70 lbs
SW 3.40 lbs
SW 9.70 lbs
Power – This chelated liquid mineral mixture is readily absorbed through
the intestines into the bird’s system. Use it extensively during racing
and breeding, often spraying it onto the feed. Works extremely well as
a bonding agent for brewer’s yeast and vitamins. A Siegel’s exclusive,
considered by many as the best mineral supplement available.
SW 2.20 lbs
SW 3.45 lbs
SW 9.70 lbs
Pigeon Breeder Plus- Created
specifically for the breeding racing pigeon with all the ingredients
needed for a healthy breeding season. Contains malto-dextrin, 13 vitamins,
chelated minerals, pro-biotics, digestive enzymes, L-Carnitine, electrolytes,
amino acids, and a plant extract that helps to control fecal odors.
Use in either water or feed.
SW 1.5 lbs.
SW 3.0 lbs
Biochol – Contains methionine, choline, sorbitol, biotin, and vitamin B-12. Highly
recommended as a liver and moult tonic with depurative action. Promotes
excellent plumage. (Oropharma – Belgium)
SW 2.95 lbs
Gard -- A pro-biotic
water-additive formula made from specially cultured, naturally occurring
microbes and a unique catalyst, which increases blood-stream absorption
by ten times. Use one teaspoon per gallon of water. One quart covers 60
to 80 birds for six months.
SW 3.80 lbs
SW 2.80 lbs
SW 9.30 lbs
Calcamineral – This is the genuine product! Accept no substitutes! All essential minerals
plus vitamins with added oyster shell, making this product an excellent
source for calcium needed by laying hens and by older cocks feeding young.
(Pego - Germany).
SW 3.70 lbs.
Fertibol - Tremendous aid for fertility and hatchability. This world renown product
contains a special formulation including calcium, phosphorus, and vitamins
A, D3, and E, proven necessary for good laying and hatching of eggs. Fertibol
promotes healthy skeletal growth as well, so it can be given during the
weaning period to produce strong-boned young and during breeding. Excellent
for older birds.
SW 2.50 lbs
Aminovit – This liquid conditioning preparation contains 21 amino acids. Developed
years ago by Jos Herbots, brother of Philip, and well known as a specialist
in long-distance flights. Amino acids are well known as the building blocks
of albumen, essential to the function of the muscles and nerves. Two important
factors, found in Aminovit, are vital: the percentage of each amino acid
in the combination, and the quality of the amino acids. For speed and
middle distance races, use on the third-to-last and last day before basketing.
For long distance races, use during the three days before the day of basketing.
(Herbots – Belgium)
SW 3.45 lbs
Naturaline – Concentrated greens and plant extracts. Concocted from
fifteen specifically selected varieties of plants and herbs, this extract
has been proven effective in aiding the respiratory, digestive and urinary
tracts. Pigeons that receive regular doses of Naturaline in their drinking
water display a rosier skin, more glossy and luxurious plumage, and the
pigmentation and luster in the eye are heightened—all signs of optimum
health. (Natural - Belgium)
SW 3.55 lbs
Vitamineral – Vitaminized minerals in powder form. Vitamineral is
a product that the pigeons need all year long. There is always a marked
increase in consumption during breeding, after a race, and during the
moult. Use in the grit. (Natural - Belgium)
SW 2.45 lbs
SW 6.70 lbs
(Click here to return to top of page)